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#11 (permalink)      10/18/2015 9:13:51 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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bdpf79
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Sorry to be a bit off-topic but a quick question for you8steve88 since you collect Enlan EL01s.
I received SKU 1572205 this week and while I love the look, ergonomics and the knife in general, I have a few issues.
First, while the action is acceptable, it is not amazing. When I open the knife slowly with 2 hands, if feel it slightly rubbing/grinding somewhere which prevents from a butter smooth action and gives this gritty feel to it.
Second, the liner lock engages properly however, it is extremely hard to disengage, to the point that it hurts my finger everytime O close the knife. I wonder if the tolerances are a bit off and the liner lock is a tiny bit too long.

Have you ever had anything similar with any of your EL01s? any ideas? I am no knife expert and have actually never disassembled a knife so disassembling it might be a bit challenging.

Thanks.
#12 (permalink)      10/19/2015 8:51:34 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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Hi there bdpf79.
Have a look at Lazy Lizard Gear on YouTube, he has everything you need and the cost is not that high. Even with the postage to the U.K. (a very reasonable $7). I bought several sets.
YouTube video of Lazy Lizard Gear replacing the washers on an EL-01, it really is quite easy. All you need is a good quality Torx T6, or two if you can stretch your budget a bit, it helps to stop one side turning as you undo the other side, a pair of needle nose pliers can also be used, gripping the stand-offs as you turn the screws.
I use a keyless drill chuck (£3 from ebay new and clean) to remove and replace the pivot screws. I also fit the pivot screws that LLG sell, however being black they don't match to appearance on some of the knives, the EL-01s like yours I have replaced the original pivot screw. Someone made a tool for me that fits the triangular shape of the pivot screws so I have a choice of tools.

Sometimes this roughness can happen, the Damascus version is truly horrible to open/close because the etched blade steel makes the détente ball feel like it's going across a ploughed field. Being as I don't plan on using the knife other than as a display model.

Enlan uses some awful oil on assembly, a strip and clean (include the Phosphor Bronze washers if you like) should see a much improved action. Against the popular opinion I sometimes lube the blade tang lock-face with a molybdenum disulphide grease. A good thing to use as a temporary fix is applying graphite on the lock-face from a really high tech instrument, the humble pencil. Just rub the pencil "lead" over the blade tang machining and the sticky feeling of the liner lock.
If you want the easy way out just leave the tang/lock-bar to bed-in and smooth out with use.
They are getting much better on the later models, FT must buy from a dealer with old stock. Nothing wrong with that but the knives need a bit of fine tuning.
I have been looking forv alternative places to buy since FT won't set a reasonable shipping charge, most Chinese vendors offer free shipping. I stumbled across an all black EL-01 listed as a Mugnum, Boker sells an EL-01 version called the A-Stan with different blade finish and different pivot screw head, still the triangle shape but with a T8 Torx in the centre. They include the Torx T8 and T6 in the tin that the knife comes in. However this "Mugnum" actually has Magnum on the blade, I mention it because it is the smoothest EL-01 that I have ever used, actually a perfect model as long as you like all black livery. I mentioned it to a friend that had just been given a brand new in box and pouch wooden scaled EL-01 - by me - I couldn't bear to only have my user wooden scaled EL-01 so I bought another and the Mugnum turned up in a product search on Ali. No idea about why it was made but I'm pleased it was. This friend bought one as well and said it was as I described it, almost perfect, I'm happy it was because I told him that I'd buy it off him for the asking price if it was not as I described.
If you are wanting to swap bearing washers don't be afraid to do it, as long as you can turn a screw in and out it's quite easy. Please remember to cover the cutting edge with something like electricians tape or gaff tape, it's very easy to get little nicks and cuts when handling the blade. If you aren't changing the pivot screw then some Loctite blue thread locker when putting the old screw back in and adjusting the blade play to zero.
Forgive the long ramble, watch Lazy Lizard's video and have a go, it really is that easy to work on, a very strong knife but a simple one.
#13 (permalink)      10/19/2015 12:34:30 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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Funny how things work out. I got an Enlan EL-01 with wooden scales in this afternoon's post. It has the sticky linerlock like you describe and the opening, while smooth, makes a squeaking sound, metal on metal. feels like the détente ball is pressing too hard on the tang. Both are symptoms of a linerlock putting too much pressure on the tang. If they don't disappear after the graphite and grease with loads of opening and closing first to bed things in then I'll strip it and adjust the linerlock by bending outwards a little bit.
#14 (permalink)      10/19/2015 9:30:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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bdpf79
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Thanks for all the info Steve.

The video was actually very helpful, the knife seems pretty easy to disassemble.
I also looked at LLG's website. He's out of the 0.010 phosphor bronze washers atm which are the ones used on the EL01. I was still going to buy some 0.015 for other Chinese knives that I have but he might have increased his shipping. 20 sets of washers was $10 and shipping to Canada was also $10 :(
I'll probably wait until he gets the other washers back in stock and order them together if I can't find the bronze washers anywhere else.
These don't seem easy to find, at least not in places like Ebay or Amazon.

What do you mean by "face-lock"?
I tried to put some graphite on the detente ball and also at the back of the tang (at least where I could reach without disassembling the knife), opened/closed the knife 100 times but same thing.

Sorry to hear that your has the same issue of grinding.
Is your liner lock also very hard to disengage?
#15 (permalink)      10/20/2015 12:24:20 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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Yes my liner lock is hard to disengage. Not for long I hope - that is what I meant by lock face, the area on the tang that is machined to match the place that the liner contacts to lock the blade open, it should be easier to open. I've had an evening opening and closing the knife and it is a bit better, but not much, I sometimes leave them to bed in a bit before I lube them but I don't think it makes a lot of difference.
The phosphor bronze washers are a nightmare to find, not one supplier in the U.K. and the ones in the U.S.A. want silly money for postage. USAKnifemaker stocks some - folding knife parts/washers, bushings and bearings on the website. I've ordered a couple of times but £14 for postage is taking the pee, they would only ship them in a box not a bag like most other vendors use. Knifekits is another one I've tried but didn't order when the shipping price was added, can't remember how much but enough to make me empty my shopping cart and move on.
Johnathan - LLG is the most useful out there, you want to see his torture test of one of his EL-01s amazing but it didn't kill it. I'm not keen on his cutting a slot in the pivot screw but his replacements work well.

A mate of mine made me a tool to adjust the pivots, three slots cut into a piece of brass tube with a hex head that fits the normal hex screwdrivers, or in my case a quarter inch socket adapter. The roll pin idea is a good one especially with the R clip to turn it. At least the three hole pivot srews are less common now.

Pivot tool.


Three types of pivot.


Boker Magnum A-Stan - EL-01 ReBadged and improved pivot.


My every day user.


I sourced stainless screws but the problem is getting the head shape to cover the machined out scale around the screw, one of the smaller phosphor bronze washers from USAKnifemaker fitted nicely and as it's a daily user it doesn't matter if it looks odd, it works.
#16 (permalink)      10/21/2015 9:26:02 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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bdpf79
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Thanks Steve.
In order for fix the liner lock issue, I was thinking of disassembling the knife and lightly sand either the tang of the liner lock to allow for easier disengagement. Does that seem like a bad idea?
#17 (permalink)      10/22/2015 4:14:47 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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Personally I wouldn't touch the knife tang as it is ground in an arc as well as being heat treated and difficult to get right freehand.
Sanding the end of the liner lock would be easier. This is where trial and error comes into play.
It might be better to bend the liner lock so it has less tension, you can bend it back if you go too far unlike removing metal, I'd try this at first but again in very small steps.

On a related issue, I've just stripped and re-assembled an EL-04MCT - Axis lock and green/black Micarta. I've never been keen on the glossy feel of the small ridges all over the scales so I've sanded them flat leaving the contours about the same. The Micarta feels a lot better and has more grip. Re-assembling it was a sod, the blade and washers, PB from LLG, would not line up enough to get the pivot through. After many tries I rounded over the pivot edge with a small diamond file enough so it would push the washers into the correct position and allow the pivot through. Just taking off the squared shoulder was enough, ten minutes well spent. You might want to do the same to the pivot on your EL-01 if it is difficult to get back together. The washers that were in there, one Teflon and one brass were smooth enough but I thought as I had it apart then I'd swap them but not really needed, the stock washers can be good enough.
Good luck anyway you will get to know your knife better and at least you'll know that it is clean inside and lubed properly.
#18 (permalink)      10/22/2015 9:02:29 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Thanks Steve for all the advice.
#19 (permalink)      10/23/2015 12:22:00 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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No problem, any issues just ask.
The Enlan EL-01 range are great knives. More so if you're prepared to put a bit of work into them.
I tried to buy a couple of the Boker Magnum A-Stan version about a month ago and was told by several stores and Boker themselves that they had been discontinued. it might be worth looking at the big Chinese exp site as I bought an all black Magnum from there and it is the best and smoothest that I've ever handled. A mate bought one on my recommendation and his was the same smooth opening and clothing. The store mislabelled the entry as a MUGNUM probably deliberately to avoid issues with Boker. Definitely worth looking for though, it comes in a plain white box without Boker or Enlan branding but with MAGNUM on the blade.
#20 (permalink)      10/23/2015 1:10:15 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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bdpf79
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What kind of oil do you typically use to lube the pivot and washers?
I've been using 3 in 1 cause that what I had home but surely there is something better.
#21 (permalink)      10/24/2015 4:33:06 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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I use several different types of lube, oil, grease, whatever is to hand. Anything except WD-40, I dislike that stuff intensely.
3 in 1 is fine. I have some cheapo Carlube Handy Oil that I got at my local equivalent of Halfords.
I use some grease with molybdenum disulphide in it, very slippy stuff but messy, it is used as thick oil in car constant velocity joints.
I really like Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide, a non-oil lubricant - very good at anti rusting as well. The same company does Hi-Slip grease that is synthetic and contains molybdenum sulphide. These two are a bit spendy until you try to buy one of the oil pens, ridiculously priced.The way I do it is to buy one of the Tuf-Glide oil pens (to see if you like it) then buy an 8oz (224ml) spray bottle and use that to refill the oil pen, it brings the price per ml. down to reasonable levels. I suppose that it depends on how many knives you have to look after, I've bought 120 from FastTech alone so I have a few. :)
For the wood scales I let mine absorb the oils and salts from normal hand use, it brings the rosewood down to a rich brown colour, then I use one of my favourite items of knife care - Renaissance or Ren Wax. It is amazing stuff (not food safe though) Look on YouTube there are videos about it. It was developed by the conservators at the British Museum to renovate and conserve a variety of materials, very good for knife users/collectors a sort of one stop shop for preserving things. I use it on wood, leather, plastics and blades, brilliant stuff. The only thing that will remove it is white spirit - turpentine substitute.
Back to the oiling, many people use Ballistol and like it, same for frog lube and many other products but for an everyday easy to find product then there is absolutely nothing wrong with 3 in 1.