Knife modding
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#21 (permalink)      10/24/2015 4:33:06 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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I use several different types of lube, oil, grease, whatever is to hand. Anything except WD-40, I dislike that stuff intensely.
3 in 1 is fine. I have some cheapo Carlube Handy Oil that I got at my local equivalent of Halfords.
I use some grease with molybdenum disulphide in it, very slippy stuff but messy, it is used as thick oil in car constant velocity joints.
I really like Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide, a non-oil lubricant - very good at anti rusting as well. The same company does Hi-Slip grease that is synthetic and contains molybdenum sulphide. These two are a bit spendy until you try to buy one of the oil pens, ridiculously priced.The way I do it is to buy one of the Tuf-Glide oil pens (to see if you like it) then buy an 8oz (224ml) spray bottle and use that to refill the oil pen, it brings the price per ml. down to reasonable levels. I suppose that it depends on how many knives you have to look after, I've bought 120 from FastTech alone so I have a few. :)
For the wood scales I let mine absorb the oils and salts from normal hand use, it brings the rosewood down to a rich brown colour, then I use one of my favourite items of knife care - Renaissance or Ren Wax. It is amazing stuff (not food safe though) Look on YouTube there are videos about it. It was developed by the conservators at the British Museum to renovate and conserve a variety of materials, very good for knife users/collectors a sort of one stop shop for preserving things. I use it on wood, leather, plastics and blades, brilliant stuff. The only thing that will remove it is white spirit - turpentine substitute.
Back to the oiling, many people use Ballistol and like it, same for frog lube and many other products but for an everyday easy to find product then there is absolutely nothing wrong with 3 in 1.
#22 (permalink)      10/24/2015 8:41:00 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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bdpf79
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Lot of good stuff I need to look at now :)
Thanks again.
#23 (permalink)      1/4/2016 2:40:41 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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javyn
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I maintain my Opinel's beechwood handle with Ballistol. Really great stuff. If you are a gun owner, you really should have some in stock!

On an EDC pocket knife like this Opinel, I don't bother to oil the blade. I think I gave it a vinegar bath, or I just used it on enough fruit to build a natural patina, don't remember.

All my other high carbon knives though get the Ballistol on the blades as well as the handles.

Edited on 1/4/2016 at 2:43 PM. Reason:
"But if she bear a maid child, then she shall be unclean two weeks, as in her separation: and she shall continue in the blood of her purifying threescore and six days." (Leviticus 12:5)
#24 (permalink)      1/5/2016 12:15:18 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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bdpf79
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I looked at Tuf Glide and there are mixed opinions, a lot of people love it but as many also hate it LOL!
I also looked at other well reviewed lubs like Militec 1 , nano oil, Finish Line Extreme Flouro, etc...
While the consensus on those is positive, I found them quite pricey, especially for budget knives.
In the end, I decided to settle for mineral oil for the blade and Hoppe's 9 (gun oil) for the pivot.
Mineral oil is cheap and can be found in any drug store and it's food safe (not that I do much prep with my knives or am afraid of a bit of oil in my system but I figured, why not?)
The general opinion on Hoppe's 9 is that there are most likely better lubs for knives but this one is relatively inexpensive, easy to find in stores and works relatively well for most people.

With the holidays and all, I haven't had time to try it yet but I will when time permits.
#25 (permalink)      4/8/2016 2:09:43 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Adahn
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So I tried to replace the great Sanrenmu M1 with a Sanrenmu 9055MUC-GHJL SKU: 1809409 because the M1 only offers the tip-down carry option which I very much dislike.



Also the design of the handles and the false grind look great on the 9055 but all together it doesn't come close to the quality of the M1 which has a rounded blade spine, not such a sharp thumb stud which is even held by a screw instead of being pressed in like on the 9055.

Long story short, the clip had to become repositioned and slimmed.







A funny fact is that both liners (but only one scale) are drilled and tapped for tip-down carry which is somewhat logical because it's actually twice the same liner only the detent springs are bent on the oposite directions...

Here's a quick shot of my annealing process on the first knife to try this, the Camillus 18668:





And the result:



#26 (permalink)      4/9/2016 5:29:08 AM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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Nice work on the M1 you've improved an already great knife by making it fit your requirements - exactly what customizing is all about.
The Camillus is a good looking knife, the G10 is well machined to bring out the grain. Good tip on saving drill bits as well.
The good news is that theSanRenMu M1 is available again in black or the 9051 in black/white, black/sand and black/green
#27 (permalink)      4/9/2016 1:42:28 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Adahn
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@8steve88 Yes, the M1 is a great knife, if I'd ever do this mod I'd grind away one of the clip holes though, the one in the middle like a Y or make it asymetric because getting 3 holes at the right place is a real pita, esp. when they use M3 screws instead of the usualy M2 or M2.5.
The G10 on the Camillus wasn't that well machined, I was quite disappointed to be honest.
Also the liners were very sharp so i decided to mod it. I've put the scales on a wooden jig held by double sided adhesive tape and ground the round shape on a belt sander on job. Then I sanded it with sandpaper glued the same way on a flat piece of metal, up to 600 grit, and realised it's looking too much like black ABS plastic. After googling I found the idea to use a scotchpad and some metal pot cleaning paste, that white stuff with grainy abbrasive particles. Polishing this way removed epoxy but not the glass fibers, making the structure visible again.
I've heard many manufacturers use sandblasting for their G10 to get a bit coarser effect but I don't have such machinery at hands ;)

Oh, here's another ground and polished example, the SRM WA721-A1, the Sanrenmu SAK-alike for the Asian market which is nearly same as the Boker TechTool 2, produced by SRM, too.
I had to sink the screws a bit more, too, btw.

Before:



After:









The hollow ground Sandvik blade is exptremely sharp and got a drop of my blood at the first day but I guess if I'd ever need a knife like that I'd get the single bladed Boker TechTool 1 where the clip can be positioned on both ends (the SRM has the tweezers instead but still they should have made it for tip-up carry, the deep carry clip bites the hands after little use :(
#28 (permalink)      4/10/2016 2:33:54 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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8steve88
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The Boker Tech Tool is not bad but the SanRenMu is more in my style, they get a lot of things right, I have a larger size SRM 9052MTC-GH that even has blanking pieces to fit where the pocket clip should before moving them, more knives should do that.



I like the look of the RealSteel T3000



But £60 is a bit over my budget.

If you are stuck for screws then Kays Fasteners are very good. I keep a stock of nuts screws and taps around just in case. Same with taps, a size larger can usually be tapped without too much trouble in liners.

The only thing I've done recently is re-visit my Enlan EL-04MCT I'd already bent the Omega springs to a more comfortable operation so it was work on the scales, wet/dry the scales all round to get rid of the plasticky ridged feeling with 240 grit then a going over with 80 grit to get the strands in the Micarta to show and grip better. Then a good blowing out with the compressed air, the type sold in a can for blowing into a computer to re-distribute the dust and fluff. Feels a lot nicer now.
I've bought a couple of Y-Start JIN01s recently, excellent knife and needs absolutely nothing doing except nit-picking.
Very refreshing to have a knife without a pocket clip for a change. All there is to do is pick a colour and style for a lanyard and bead, long live pocket lint and "stonewashing" by coins. ;)
#29 (permalink)      4/11/2016 2:24:46 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Adahn
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I like the SRM tool for having the tweezers and they are surprisingly good, way better than the Victorinox ones IMHO. I've even seen pics online where the rough handled SRM version had the clip in tip-up position and the tweezers on the other side, I'd really prefer them that way, maybe the RealSteel version will offer that as they make the cliples X-series already.

In my car I keep the SRM T01, it was my first edc knife and I like it but I could live without serrations and tip-down is a downer for me as usualy, so it's great as a backup knife. Other than that if I can afford another knife I want to go for better steel than XCrXXMoV, I really like my Shirogorov Neon clone. Don't know if it's S35VN as stated but it holds and edge way better than my usual budget steel.

About screws, I have a set of them already, needed them for my first modding attemt, the aforementioned Enlan EL-04MCT. Only the heads are a bit too big, some of them i've sanded smaller clamped in in a drill press.




I've even made a pivot tool from a Philips bit:




The EL-04MCT is a bit too heavy for me, same as with the Ganzos the liners are a bit thick and never skelletonized but it's too big for my needs anyways. Also the AXIS knobs are very sharp on my copy, nothing I tried could change on that, the one piece Ganzo version seems better to me.

The blade shape was done this way after I've tried to give it a false edge, on one side it worked, on the other one not, because I can use the flat belt sander only from one side. It sucks big time to see what you could do but then you're limited by your tools - or you just improvise and make it all new ;)
#30 (permalink)      4/11/2016 2:39:32 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Adahn
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By the way, my last scales, maybe you like them.




It's a Kershaw Chill with scales made from a carbon fiber/blue glass fiber composite material used for orthopendic stiffening and a cf backspacer (I don't like all-through lanyard holes).

On my Ontario RAT 2 I saw away the glass fiber middle layers and epoxied the thin sheets to make the slabs.


#31 (permalink)      4/11/2016 2:43:24 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Adahn
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I don't find a way to edit my post so here the last one for tonite.

I've seen your Y-Start folder and I like the looks but without a clip it's a no-go for me at the moment, even though now I'd know how to add one. Is it an original design by the way?
Somewhere I think I was reading something it would be a Rockstead model but it's more looking like one of them Russian designers (which is a good thing atm considering the Shirogorovs, Sinkevichs and others).