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#21 (permalink)      10/1/2021 12:15:44 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Crispycritters
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Troepfler wrote:

Crispycritters wrote:
and use a standard floating 510 connection



Do you see a floating 510 in an Atto?[/quote]

Because I was replying to Hiko9's post where he specifically mentioned he would like to see a REGULATED tube mod of small dimensions.

#22 (permalink)      10/1/2021 1:22:58 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Troepfler
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Hi Crispy,

Hiko wrote about a PWM.
I dont find PWM informations for vaping tools on the first 2 google pages.
But me and other users understand him this way:
can we improve 22 mm tube mods into "more intelligent" tube mods?
(but remain the same size like e.g. an Atto).
I think: yes, that is possible.
And again: without a screen, that is the problem to solve.

10 years ago 10 specialists on FT would discuss this,
we did that, and sometimes manufactures changed fast the construction.
Hopefully FT finds the way back to a specialists forum.

Edited on 10/1/2021 at 2:06 PM. Reason:
#23 (permalink)      10/1/2021 2:07:40 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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Troepfler wrote:

@carrion4worm

I dont understand the meaning SL and LV, sorry.
I think I know what Cyborg and piggy-backing means, but I am not sure.

Some users and me talk about tube mods in 22mm,
or a bit bigger with a bigger battery.

Something like Cold Steel 100 is not a tube mod,
something like this is only ugly.


Yes, "piggy-backing" is basically a tube with a chip stacked on top, like the Cold Steel, YIHI SL Class, or the new LOST VAPE Cyborg.

Not as aesthetically appealing, but available. I think the Cyborg looks like a Sunbox on crack...but again, some will find it appealing due to size, ergonomics, etc.

What does he mean when he says words?
#24 (permalink)      10/1/2021 2:39:35 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Crispycritters
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Troepfler wrote:

Hi Chrispy,

Hiko wrote about a PWM.
I dont find PWM informations for vaping tools on the first 2 google pages.
But me and other users understand him this way:
can we improve 22 mm tube mods into "more intelligent" tube mods?
(but remain the same size like e.g. an Atto).
I think: yes, that is possible.
And again: without a screen, that is the problem.

10 years ago 10 specialists on FT would discuss this,
we did that, and sometimes manufactures changed fast the construction.
Hopefully FT finds the way back to a specialists forum.



My previous comment about accommodating a floating 510 was in reply to Ible's comment, not Hiko9 as I said earlier, sorry about any confusion.

What you are asking for SOUNDS simple but there is a basic problem you may have overlooked - any additional circuitry between the battery and the atomiser 510 will causes voltage drop.

Once you add a mosfet kick chip to a mechanical mod to give basic protections less voltage gets to the 510 compared to a direct hybrid connection. Any additional circuitry to buck down the battery output to a lower constant voltage will add to the voltage drop through the mod.

A fully charged battery will display 4.2V at rest, but the voltage it actually gives will start to sag when it is put under load. If you are using a high resistance MTL build the battery sag will be minimal, but with any sub ohm lower resistance builds the battery sag, combined with voltage drop through the mod, could easily be over 0.50V which would make any voltage buck down system redundant.

Although it would be good to have a mech style tube that can give a constant 3.7 Volts unavoidable issues like battery sag and voltage drop mean it won't work once the battery drops below about 3.9 to 4 Volts with a high resistance build and the vape will get progressively weaker - and with a sub ohm build it simply won't do anything - the vape will get weaker after every hit..

It WOULD work if it was set to buck down to 3.0 Volts as voltage drop and battery sag would be less of an issue - but I wonder just how many vapers would be willing to build to lower resistances to suit the lower wattage, and how many would dismiss it as junk because it only puts out 3 Volts.

#25 (permalink)      10/1/2021 2:51:43 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Hi carrion,

I checked LOST VAPE Cyborg,
my browser had a black out by loading the picture.
I have never seen a more ugly mod like this.

Perhaps the remaining specialists in this forum will show you,
how high designed mods looks like.
sometimes amazing constructions,
I miss these guys.

You perhaps stay on your plastic mods.
#26 (permalink)      10/1/2021 3:20:21 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Troepfler
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Crispycritters wrote:

Troepfler wrote:
Hi Chrispy,

Hiko wrote about a PWM.
I dont find PWM informations for vaping tools on the first 2 google pages.
But me and other users understand him this way:
can we improve 22 mm tube mods into "more intelligent" tube mods?
(but remain the same size like e.g. an Atto).
I think: yes, that is possible.
And again: without a screen, that is the problem.

10 years ago 10 specialists on FT would discuss this,
we did that, and sometimes manufactures changed fast the construction.
Hopefully FT finds the way back to a specialists forum.

My previous comment about accommodating a floating 510 was in reply to Ible's comment, not Hiko9 as I said earlier, sorry about any confusion.

What you are asking for SOUNDS simple but there is a basic problem you may have overlooked - any additional circuitry between the battery and the atomiser 510 will causes voltage drop.

Once you add a mosfet kick chip to a mechanical mod to give basic protections less voltage gets to the 510 compared to a direct hybrid connection. Any additional circuitry to buck down the battery output to a lower constant voltage will add to the voltage drop through the mod.

A fully charged battery will display 4.2V at rest, but the voltage it actually gives will start to sag when it is put under load. If you are using a high resistance MTL build the battery sag will be minimal, but with any sub ohm lower resistance builds the battery sag, combined with voltage drop through the mod, could easily be over 0.50V which would make any voltage buck down system redundant.

Although it would be good to have a mech style tube that can give a constant 3.7 Volts unavoidable issues like battery sag and voltage drop mean it won't work once the battery drops below about 3.9 to 4 Volts with a high resistance build and the vape will get progressively weaker - and with a sub ohm build it simply won't do anything - the vape will get weaker after every hit..

It WOULD work if it was set to buck down to 3.0 Volts as voltage drop and battery sag would be less of an issue - but I wonder just how many vapers would be willing to build to lower resistances to suit the lower wattage, and how many would dismiss it as junk because it only puts out 3 Volts.



May I ask you from which country you write?
Papua, Hebrides, Tovalu, ... ?

#27 (permalink)      10/1/2021 3:30:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Crispycritters
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I'm in the UK Troepfler
#28 (permalink)      10/1/2021 4:09:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Troepfler
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Crispycritters wrote:

I'm in the UK Troepfler



You are lucky.
Otherwise I would have started my common anti US campain.

You are wrong, you put small parts into a whole picture.
After some years you will see, you will only need very basis equipment.
Thats perhaps like older people say: it was better in the past.
But we have to see: industrie wants to sell:
even if you need TC or not.
Lots of these things we dont really want.

Edit: and thats what some users say in this thread:
slow down to the really necessary things.


Edited on 10/1/2021 at 4:20 PM. Reason:
#29 (permalink)      10/1/2021 4:46:37 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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carrion4worm
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No, plastic mods are Tuesdays and Saturdays! This is today's gear. A Taifun 21700 mosfet tube is great for me with a .19 single Alien in the GT4 reproduction by Wejoy.

If you want a weaker hit on a mosfet, simply build higher, your hit will get progressively weaker the higher you build, in addition to natural cell depletion.

Of the Piggy back mods, I'd say the Cthulhu Hastur did it the sleekest...though the chip they used is highly suspect if users, including me, are an accurate representation. I fear trying to jam a small, inferior chip in a too small mod will lead to overheating and premature death.

On a personal note, "on crack" is a bad thing. While 50.00 mods may not interest me always, most vapers spend in this price range, so I talk about mass market products, which aren't always the best. Get your head out your ass, troepler, and stop arguing just to be contrary...

You haven't even given us an idea of a proper mod, in your mind, so who knows if you can even be taken seriously, right? Thanks for clarifying.
What does he mean when he says words?
#30 (permalink)      10/1/2021 5:06:52 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
Crispycritters
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Troepfler wrote:

Crispycritters wrote:
I'm in the UK Troepfler

You are lucky.
Otherwise I would have started my common anti US campain.

You are wrong, you put small parts into a whole picture.
After some years you will see, you will only need very basis equipment.
Thats perhaps like older people say: it was better in the past.
But we have to see: industrie wants to sell:
even if you need TC or not.
Lots of these things we dont really want.



Sorry pal. I've already been vaping for years - your assumption that I must have started vaping when I joined Fasttech is incorrect. I only came here (and other Chinese sites) to buy a selection of mechanical tubes mods that are becoming difficult to find at home. Wherever possible I try to buy from UK vendors - but this is practically impossible when items are a few years old.

Although you don't seem to realise it, asking for a constant 3.7 Volts in a simple mech tube will involve using buck/boost circuitry which will not fit on a simple kick chip. You claim that you want something as simple and small as possible but fail to appreciate that you will need a physically larger and more complex board, which means a larger mod to house the additional circuitry to provide a constant 3.7 Volts..

The only way of achieving what you are asking is to house the components in a separate casing on the side of the tube (piggyback style as Carrion suggested earlier) or to use a wider tube and house the board inside it running alongside the battery(like the Uwell Nunchaku - which Carrion also mentioned earlier in the thread). Both situations mean a larger and more complex mod.

It makes little sense for any manufacturer to do this - if they are going to add buck boost the mod is going to be physically larger - if they mod is going to be larger it makes more sense to take a standard fully regulated board complete with screen and adjustability from their parts bin and use that as they will sell far more units.

#31 (permalink)      10/1/2021 5:48:15 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Hi Crispy,

sorry man, I did not know that.
No, that would work, believe me, with 22 mm.
Now we have a lack of specialists in this forum,
but I think, carrion is an electrical specialist,
and has some ideas how to construct it.

There is always a way, if you just want it.