Old mech tubes never die ;) (in MIXX mix)
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#41 (permalink)      11/11/2021 7:04:39 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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zarck
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Troepfler wrote:

4.49 EUR:
https://www.ttt48.de/akku/lithium-ionen/18650/molicel-inr18650-p26a-36v-37v-2600mah-lithium-ionen-akku.html
and they have still to sell 1018 peaces.

My question was, does we can compare on mooch batteries website same like on dampfakkus?
Dampfakkus has only two of the mooch best mech mod batteries and only with a drain of 5A in their list:
http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkuvergleich.php?akku1=537&akku2=498&akku3=353&akku4=610&akku5=490&akku6=&a=5
Easy to see, moochs Samsung 25R is the second best after moochs Sony VTC5A ,
same on his website.
(the other 3 are the batteries which I use).

The graphic shows, there are 2 or more better batteries than which I use.
If the price is OK, why not buy the better battery?

Years ago I was thinking about springs and magnets,
but I dont think the main current is on the spring/magnet.
With 12A on the spring, your spring would glow.



You are correct... if you vape at 5A, but as you saw when you expanded the curves to higher current they start to act very different from each other at the higher amperage. That's because the batteries with higher storage are built with thinner material (which also gives higher internal resistance).

And yes, that's not the purpose of the spring that I'm referring to. If the spring is stiff and well it will move the pin that connects to the negative pole in a straight manner and also lands flat and allows for current to flow all over at once. if the pin is just slightly tilted, the current will start at one of the sides and you might not even get it to land flat on the pole.

#42 (permalink)      11/11/2021 7:38:59 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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mick6214 wrote:

in fact the question is what would be the mechanical mod that has a switch capable of handling the high power peak? Or how to reduce this peak at the time of pressing?



There are still mech mod users who like the hard hit when starting.
Thats like a Gauloises cigarette in the first and second hit.
Some people say: hits like a freighttrain.
Mech mods (perhaps better than regulated mods) can do that,
very high amps in a short time.
Perhaps regulated mods can do the same,
but because of the tiny switches the have a safety stop.
We talked in the last posts about this hard hit.
Some say cleaning, other say battery, other say low Ohms mods.

You know a lot about Ohms Law.
What would you do to get the best hit?

#43 (permalink)      11/11/2021 8:37:17 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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zarck wrote:

You are correct... if you vape at 5A, but as you saw when you expanded the curves to higher current they start to act very different from each other at the higher amperage. That's because the batteries with higher storage are built with thinner material (which also gives higher internal resistance).

And yes, that's not the purpose of the spring that I'm referring to. If the spring is stiff and well it will move the pin that connects to the negative pole in a straight manner and also lands flat and allows for current to flow all over at once. if the pin is just slightly tilted, the current will start at one of the sides and you might not even get it to land flat on the pole.[/quote]

Well, we should believe moochs advises.

No spring will move parallel.
Perhaps two left and right coiled springs will do that.

That was not part of the discussion yet,
but the electrical construction switch to tube seems to be a main main point.
SMPL construction seems smart,
lots of notches/teeths to conduct the current.
#44 (permalink)      11/11/2021 11:06:26 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Troepfler wrote:


Some say cleaning, other say battery, other say low Ohms mods.

You know a lot about Ohms Law.
What would you do to get the best hit?




Yes the "mod mesh" maintenance as check these contacts, switch, battery spring, that of 510....

But by far, it is the switch that does the most work and it heats up for him when he does not do it at 100%. Firing button, at this place there should be no heating (it means that it has a bad contact and that there is a resistance. If this is the case, the terminal has been arced (they can also be deformed due to expansion and therefore not in clean contact).

Yes, cleaning at this level or intervention to see if we can improve the power button.

To avoid arcing there is the "RC SNUBBER" module
This will remove the spike at the moment of activating the fire button and only then it is the switch that takes the power from the coil (without the current that rises to the spike). In the RC scheme (resistive plus capacitor) will have no effect when the button is on position 1 (the current takes the shortest path) The "RC" will absorb the arc and will therefore protect your switch and your battery.

It's a way to get around the problem but on a meca mod it's not easy to set up

Another way would be to double the contacts of the button in order to have a larger surface for the switch .... the tubes do not allow much fiddling ... maybe for the Hom Made

#45 (permalink)      11/11/2021 11:11:05 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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RC Snubber
forget to put the link sorry


Edited on 11/11/2021 at 11:18 PM. Reason:
#46 (permalink)      11/15/2021 3:06:49 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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3 new Samsung 29E arrived.
Not the best batteries for mech mods.
Compare these to moochs winner Molicel P26A with 7A at:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php
its a big difference.

But the hit with 29E was much better compared to my older LG MH1.
I perhaps should not use only 3 batteries in rotation for 18 month.
Or there is something wrong with LG MH1?
And yes, LG MH1 is rated to 10A, and I use 10 or a bit more.

3 Molicel P26A will arrive in 2 days,
perhaps a 14.3% better hit compared to 29E?
#47 (permalink)      11/15/2021 3:39:54 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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zarck
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If you used the mh1 for 18m it's most likely very degraded. Especially if you used it at max rating or above. Not sure about the specs for mh1, but rule of thumb is some 300 charge cycles. Fast discharge tend to put more wear on the cell than a slow discharge.
#48 (permalink)      11/15/2021 4:51:29 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Yes, max rating, but they write that I can do that.
And up to 20% overload is normal constructed into mechanical (electric?) devices.
And I used 3 and charged at about 50%,
with 50% they should live longer than 300 charge cycles.
Charging two times a day in rotation for 18 month = 540 days x 2 = 1080 cycles.
Devided by 3 batteries is 360 cycles for one battery in 18 month.
Perhaps LG MH1 problem.

OK, 360 cycles (days) when you load the battery at 50%.

But Tesla and VW will use better batteries which will last 6 years.
#49 (permalink)      11/15/2021 5:05:26 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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zarck
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Usually find graphs for the degradation over cycles in the data sheet. And yes, all variables count. And it's not like it's a finite process that suddenly just drops to dead. Just that it won't be as snappy as it was when it was fresh. And since it does this slowly over time, you might not really notice how bad it gone until you compare it to a fresh cell.
#50 (permalink)      11/15/2021 5:25:12 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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No problem for me to exchange batteries every 6 or 9 month, 3 for 15$ or cheaper.
But I was thinking about the new electric car buyers.
Do you think they can drive with a new battery set 6 years without replacement?
#51 (permalink)      11/15/2021 8:43:27 PM US Central   quote/reply + tips
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Haven't looked at the Panasonic cells that Tesla uses. But I think one of the key factors is that they use some 7000-8000 cells or so. Apparently, it can go for some 48000km with only degradation of 5%. Hard to translate that to vape or the normal datasheet data.

But this seems to be the real-life stats (so I would guess that the car will need charging way more often at 6y):