You are correct... if you vape at 5A, but as you saw when you expanded the curves to higher current they start to act very different from each other at the higher amperage. That's because the batteries with higher storage are built with thinner material (which also gives higher internal resistance).

And yes, that's not the purpose of the spring that I'm referring to. If the spring is stiff and well it will move the pin that connects to the negative pole in a straight manner and also lands flat and allows for current to flow all over at once. if the pin is just slightly tilted, the current will start at one of the sides and you might not even get it to land flat on the pole.

There are still mech mod users who like the hard hit when starting.
Thats like a Gauloises cigarette in the first and second hit.
Some people say: hits like a freighttrain.
Mech mods (perhaps better than regulated mods) can do that,
very high amps in a short time.
Perhaps regulated mods can do the same,
but because of the tiny switches the have a safety stop.
We talked in the last posts about this hard hit.
Some say cleaning, other say battery, other say low Ohms mods.

You know a lot about Ohms Law.
What would you do to get the best hit?

Yes the "mod mesh" maintenance as check these contacts, switch, battery spring, that of 510....

But by far, it is the switch that does the most work and it heats up for him when he does not do it at 100%. Firing button, at this place there should be no heating (it means that it has a bad contact and that there is a resistance. If this is the case, the terminal has been arced (they can also be deformed due to expansion and therefore not in clean contact).

Yes, cleaning at this level or intervention to see if we can improve the power button.

To avoid arcing there is the "RC SNUBBER" module
This will remove the spike at the moment of activating the fire button and only then it is the switch that takes the power from the coil (without the current that rises to the spike). In the RC scheme (resistive plus capacitor) will have no effect when the button is on position 1 (the current takes the shortest path) The "RC" will absorb the arc and will therefore protect your switch and your battery.

It's a way to get around the problem but on a meca mod it's not easy to set up

Another way would be to double the contacts of the button in order to have a larger surface for the switch .... the tubes do not allow much fiddling ... maybe for the Hom Made